The best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. The same goes for parking; only do so in designated areas as this is becoming an increasing problem with law enforcement. Then there’s Meadow Top, which has the region’s highest concentration of moderates, and the Sunshine Boulders, picturesquely situated under the longest single-span arch bridge in the U.S. Book Online. You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). If climbing on granite and climbing on sandstone had offspring, it’d climb like Nuttall sandstone. Routes meander through Cirque du Soleil body contortions as you reach for sharp crimps, finger-thin mail slots, in-cut edges, arêtes and laybacks, globular slopers, and frequent finger and hand jams. Their guides are PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) certified. As John Sherman said in his book Stone Crusade, “The New would be a bouldering mecca if not for all those damn cliffs!”. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Our guide Matt was wonderful. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. Film from 1997 showcasing some of the best rock climbs in the New River Gorge at the time. Set upon the backdrop of the New River Gorge, you are sure to get amazing views as you climb up rocks and rappel down. Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. Please try again or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. Box 246, 104 Main Street The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. 25846. When you’re 60 feet in the air clinging to a sheer stone face with a few fingers and toes, you may not be thinking about the amazing views, but rock climbing in the New River Gorge is breathtaking in more ways than one. The 3-day fest includes live music, clinics taught by pro athletes, conservation efforts, a pig roast, beer and whiskey, and a glow stick dance party. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. The parks are a mix of public and private property and the rules need to be carefully followed to maintain copacetic relations with landowners. There are many private campgrounds located within easy driving distance from the climbing areas. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve has become one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. With this large number of visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone's cooperation. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. You’ll have the opportunity to sample some of the world-famous routes that make the New River Gorge synonymous with world-class rock climbing. New River Climbing School: Specializing in instruction for beginners through advanced climbers, they offer plenty of options for families looking for a weekend of climbing. Please note that climbers make a significant contribution to the local economy! Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). Jonathan Siegrist climbing the crux boulder problem that follows a long section of 5.14. Do not trespass on private land! We send bi-weekly updates on new stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the easiest way to book a guide. TEEN ROCK CAMP. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Parking and Security New River Gorge climbing in Fayetteville West Virginia is considered to be some of the best in the world and consistently rated in the top 5 by climbing magazine. Spring and fall are the seasons for sending if only the weather would comply. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. Food and Water Really friendly and relaxed. Be safe when climbing in the park. Of course, bouldering is also an option! TRIP PLANNING. See the camping page for more information. Picture a lush green landscape with miles and miles of picturesque cliffs. Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. (optional). Please try again, or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. Despite its name, the New River is one of the oldest rivers in the world. It’s composed of Nuttall sandstone that is 98% quartz and gives the sensation of climbing on classic granitic igneous if it were embedded with infinite sand-sized crystals. A guidebook is an essential tool for locating climbs, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations. That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. Luckily, the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) has done an excellent job of advocating for access over the years. Showers You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. Private Property Like history? The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. Travel Destinations. Okay, I dared. A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing estimated that climbers contribute more than $12 million in direct spending to the area, including supporting 168 jobs and $6.3 million in wages. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. Most crags have a 15-minute approach, though longer treks can be up to 45 minutes, with some requiring a ladder or rappel to get to the base. You’ll find over 3,000 established routes to discover in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the world. Download our free app and discover your next adventure today! While perched at the anchor, you might take note of the world-class whitewater rapids below, or you may encounter mountain bikers bombing down the trails on your approach. MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING. It may seem like semantics, but climbers must stay within the legal limits or risk personal injury, steep fines (up to $5,000), and/or imprisonment for not more than six months. Do not trespass, as tensions have ebbed and flowed. Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. The majority of routes are 5.9 and harder, and most sport routes fall in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. Email Us. New River Gorge Climbing. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge, including some within the park boundary. New River Gorge National Park was designated as the United State's 63rd National Park. Annual rainfall is about 50 inches, which is approaching temperate rainforest levels. John Denver got it right. Our rock climbing instruction school is the premier guide service in the New River Gorge. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. There’s a preponderance of grades from 5.8 to 5.13, with some lines up to 100 feet long, and others severely overhung. American climber Jonathan Siegrist has redpointed a longstanding project in the New River Gorge, West Virginia: Full Metal Brisket (5.15a).It climbs a steep line up hardened West Virginia sandstone with notoriously bad holds. Second Buttress. Water is available at Canyon Rim Visitor Center. Grab your friends, hit the crag, and settle into the post-send glow with a soak in the hot tub. Glen Jean, WV The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. Sandstonia. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge. Zero Buttress is suitable for moderate routes, while First Buttress is steep (and hard) but stays dry. Encircling the New River Gorge National River area is … HOME. The rock here is harder than granite (though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course). Sandstonia. Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. It’s chock full of quirky shops, bars, and restaurants. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. Dare I say? Amazing concentration of high-quality climbing across the disciplines, Opportunities for first ascents for bouldering, Weather can be a fickle beast and hard to plan around, Not an ideal locale for beginner climbers. Please do what you can, as a climber, to limit your impact on New River Gorge and preserve it for future generations. While we are open for business, we want to ensure that everyone has an amazing and safe experience in our region. It’s only a few hours from the Red River Gorge, but the sandstone at the New River Gorge feels completely different: think sharp crimps, mail slots, and massive slopers, instead of juggy pockets.While the routes are equally demanding, there is a steep learning curve, and climbers fresh off a sending spree at the Red frequently get shut down as they adjust. New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Helpful. Read the summary of the Climbing Community Meeting held on October 27, 2018. Classic climbs begin at 5.10+ for trad and 5.11+ for sport. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. Climbing Season Just one caveat (and a note to the newbies): The New is best suited for the hard-charging climber who likes a challenge. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. There are over 1,400 established rock climbing routes in the gorge, running the gamut of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of hard sandstone and range from 30 to 120 feet (37 m) in height. Check here for more information. New River Gorge, West Virginia. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. Each day we'll go to a new climbing area from the New River Gorge to Summersville Lake to put new skills to the test. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. Date of experience: September 2015. The main sector, known as the New River Gorge Proper, contains the most developed and accessible crags in the park. If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. While climbing can take place any time of year, the best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. Primitive camping is allowed on park property. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. This task is obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use. “Just coming from out of town, to a climbing area, looking at that guidebook, it’s damn near impossible to climb a route called ‘The Racist’ and go and camp in the woods and not feel like you’re going to get lynched when you go to sleep.” The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. They are usually open from the second week of March to about the first of December. There are numerous markets and eating establishments in nearby towns.establishments in nearby towns. TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! Nuttal itself is erosion-resistant and contributes to the V-shape of the gorge, as well as the steep cliffs. The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. Between the three major river gorges- the New, the Gauley/Summersville, and the Meadow- there are over 3,000 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline, as well as hundreds of established boulder problems. The New River Gorge sees over one million visitors each year, and only a handful of those are climbers. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. COURSES. The enormity of routes ensure no matter your skill level, there will be an objective for you. Stay up-to-date with the latest outdoor adventure stories and get exclusive offers delivered straight to your inbox. Fishing is one of the most popular activities on the New River. The use of motorized drills is by permit only. He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. The New River Gorge is composed of three river gorges: New, Gauley, and Meadow. 5-Days, All inclusive. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. You’ll find a diversity of movement here. As always, abide by Leave No Trace ethics. All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Shown here are some photos of the steep classics like Apollo Reed, The Pod, Tobacco Road and more at the Summersville Lake area. The New is a better option for more advanced and all-around climbers than the Red River Gorge, the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west. Great service overall! If you want to get into outdoor climbing as a relative beginner, if you want to improve your already strong skills, or if you just want to explore lots of routes with experts who know the New River Gorge area extremely well, you should definitely choose the New River Climbing School. He writes about, you guessed it, climbing, travel (17 countries and counting), and has been featured in publications such as Rock and Ice, goEast, and The Project Magazine. It resides on a 40-acre parcel and is within walking distance of popular crags, including Junkyard. Always acknowledge the landowners' rights. Park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways. Endless Wall can keep you occupied for a lifetime, as each jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of new classics to project. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. For security reasons, do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas or trailheads. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. Aaron is a climber and freelance writer. A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. What’s everyone else coming for? The state is known colloquially as “Wet Virginia,” so even a week-long trip in the shoulder seasons has the possibility of getting hosed. Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. For example, the aptly named Endless Wall is three miles of unbroken cliff-line. Red Rock, NV. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. We love the area, we love what we do, and we know what we are doing. Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. Within the park are over 1,400 established rock climbs. The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. Got more time? Area 51 is easier to access and has long routes. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. Well, do ya, punk? If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. Friendly & knowledgeable climbing guides for New River Gorge. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides: An American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Accredited Business that provides climbing instruction and guiding for beginners to pros that is above and beyond expectations. The New River Gorge has become a major rock-climbing destination. As a result, the river has maintained its course by cutting a narrow trough through the emerging range. If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. Thanks Matt! The greater New River Gorge region is one of the East's largest, most diverse, and highest quality climbing areas. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Arrowhead Bike Farm is a new addition to the mix that offers easy access to Kaymoor. COVID-19 Update from New River Gorge CVB . Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. Each area is, at most, a half-hour drive from Fayetteville, WV, and everything is located north of town along Highway 19. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away. What can begin as a bouldery tiered-roof (my favorite!) Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. 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