... You can fill larger gaps with backer rod weatherstripping to make sure your house window replacement is airtight and waterproof. Yes, you can. It is cause by permanently damp conditions (like a shower), especially at the bottom of the tile wall, which is where the water drains to. (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!). Humidity, weather, even the structure’s foundation all affect how much it moves. Others might require removing screws that hold them in place. Posted in Advice, Hardware, Outdoor Living, Paint on July 16, 2015 . Grout is a cement-based product and as such is not meant to flex. Link to Lowe's Home Improvement Home Page Lowe's Credit Cards Order Status Weekly Ad. That being the case, I will discuss using grout first. Here’s how to fix it: Locations of weep holes in showers, Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. The water WILL get behind the tile. The problem is that there is grout haze at the bottom edge of the wall tiles from where I tried to patch up the old grout in the past. Finally, I watched the video by laticrete on how to install the latasil and they were using some type of “gasket” in the changes of plane prior to the latasil. It will not crack out or fall off. Shop M-D 20-ft x 3/8-in Gray Backer Rod Polyethylene Window Weatherstrip in the Weatherstripping department at Lowe's.com. We have tried cleaning with baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, bubbling bathroom cleaner and Clorox and it has not done the trick. See Types of Windows: Replacement Window Buying Guide to learn about the different styles of replacement windows. Thank you. If your window has sash springs, carefully remove them. To check for square, measure the diagonals of the new window frame, not the interior trim. Sometimes it's best to remove the sashes from the inside, but for this project, it'll be easier to remove the existing windows from the outside. Thanks for the speedy reply to my earlier comments, and for sharing your expertise. What they put in there was backer rod. Thank you for the post on using caulk or grout in corners. Use a utility knife to score where the stops meet the frame. Trying to stay away from epoxy grout. This will allow the corner to expand and contract without cracking the grout. Whether you have drywall, backerboard, or a membrane, if you go far enough behind the tile, you’ll find wood. it runs down the wall as normal, then hits some sort of barrier preventing it from running onto the floor, thus seeping into the grout and out. This article is part of our series on How to Install Hardwood Floors. Fill any noticeable nail holes with wood putty and paint the trim as needed. We were fortunate when we were just learning we had a gentleman who owned his own tile company later selling it to a son. You can silicone immediately after grouting. Caulk is flexible. A better grade of unsanded is available at Lowe’s called Mapei [something] FA. Much has happened since I first posted my query. What you must understand about tile installation is no matter where you are installing the tile, it is always a structure that moves, no matter how minutely. Finding the problem to fix-i hope you’re guy has returned your call. Refer to the manufacturer instructions and see Do-It-Yourself Foam Insulation for tips. Yes it will bond, yes it will be okay. Your walls and the framing of your shower must be absolutely rock solid. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. You have two choices for vinyl replacement windows: full-frame windows and insert windows. From the inside, drive screws into the holes and through the shims. If you're installing from the inside, remove the interior stops and leave the exterior stops in place. Based on what I have been reading, it is not advisable to caulk over grout. However, this installer says he has used this same type of caulk (not silicone) for many years and he has never had an issue. Use in … The only thing you’re trying to do is give the water a specific place to exit the wall. Tiles are white 4×12 with 1/16″ grout joint. Be sure to work it into the corner of the stool. As far as the ‘dam’, you’re correct, that’s why you need weep holes. And the grout for this subway tile , is spectralock pro your favorite? I’m confused. Do you grout everything, including the corners, then go back and scrap out the grout in the corners, then apply silicone? Thoughts on which option is better? Some storm windows can be removed by lifting them out of their channels. You can make any necessary adjustments with shims. If one tiled surface meets another at a different angle, it should be caulked or siliconed. Avoid batt insulation, which can absorb water. Stephanie, With gaps that large what you can do it install a bead of silicone against one side about 1/8″ thick (leaving the rest of the gap open), then once cured grout between the tile and silicone. Just scrape out whatever combination of grout and silicone they have in there all the way back to behind the tile, ideally all the way to the substrate. That’s why you need to have everything waterproofed correctly before any tile is installed. Creating weep holes in your existing area creates a combination system even though you have a tiled floor. Think of rubbing sand across glass. Have you ever used those? They didn’t mention what it was. Normally in a shower will a tiled floor as well, the water will run down the wall over the waterproofing, onto the floor, again-over the waterproofing, then into the weep holes in the drain. If you can't pry the stops off cleanly, they're probably embedded within the frame and need to be cut using an oscillating saw. If your window has weights, cut the cords and let the weight fall inside the frame. It will not stay if the grout has no grout line to hold onto – if it is simply attempting to grab onto the face of the tiles at a 90 degree angle. The laticrete supplier in my area said the caulk is what they sell. I would think the latasil would be the better option but would have to order online. It is just best to use silicone at all changes of plane for your project. As well my husband did a fair amount of YouTube video searches. This article provides detailed instructions for leveling a subfloor based on our project. 2. Placing caulk over grout in the corners will just lead to cracked grout in the corners that can not fall out – but it’ll still be cracked. How do you keep grout out of the corners without the walls near the corner looking sloppy. Great website by the way. The gaps are 3/16”. 1) you can not caulk or grout over existing grout. Professional Tile Installation Contractor Fort Collins and all of Northern Colorado. I now do understand that we are speaking about two types of weep holes, those that are part of the drain and those that are required when tile meets a solid surface such as a floor base or a tub, vs. a tile floor. Check that the sashes sit evenly in the frame. You mentioned caulking on plane changes and cited wall to floor and wall to tub edge as examples. Use a piece of scrap wood to protect the sill adapter while you tap it in place with a hammer. 3)there is sanded caulk and non sanded caulk – you can purchase to match your grout color. Place the window in the opening, resting it against the interior stops and pressing it firmly against the caulk. Silicone is only aesthetic in that particular application. If you're installing from the outside, as with this project, remove the exterior stops but leave the interior stops in place. He discussed issues before and during our own install and was happy to take all our questions. Identify any stops on the existing window. If your wall moves your grout will eventually crack – it’s that simple. Project Overview: Uneven … If I am understanding you correctly, by having silicone-caulked over the grout, this could actually make the situation worse by not allowing the water to drain from behind the tile walls, especially given that the entire floor perimeter has now been sealed. That simply means that if you are using sanded grout you cannot butt the tiles against each other at the corner and expect to be able to force grout into it. Because the water in the wall NEEDS to have a path to the drain. You can fill larger gaps with backer rod weatherstripping to make sure your house window replacement is airtight and waterproof. My guess would be that he installed a bead of silicone at the bottom of the wall for some ridiculous reason. I have been trying to decide what do do with the gap between the hardibacker (red guard applied) and the mud shower pan. (Don’t do that.) Get help moving and supporting them during installation. I did not understand that water is meant to run behind the tile wall and under the tile floor to the drain, but this makes perfect sense since grout is porous (I did learn that sealing grout is not a waterproofing step). I’m slowly plugging away on installing the tile and have decided to add a niche. Thanks for the above comment. It is not your grout turning pink. would we also be able to epoxy grout where tile meets tub? It sounds to me like that particular corner (and perhaps the entire floor perimeter) has silicone or something trapping the water above the floor. I like the idea to not have to worry about maintenance with grout until it starts cracking. The idea of removing the grout at all joints to replace with silicone caulk seems extreme (though I do realize that we should be prepared to experience grout cracking in other parts of the shower over time). Nice questions Bill, sorry if I got to this after the thin-set dried!! Wood moves, it’s just a fact of life. New vinyl window replacements are low maintenance and offer energy-efficient features due to their insulating properties. I hope you find a good solution. I’ve decided to have my privacy violated and start putting things on Facebook. This means the backer rod should be this far below the concrete pad surface. Another issue is that not only will the installer not respond (and frankly, he has lost our trust), we are finding it difficult to find someone local willing to step in and help. Check the manufacturer's documentation to get specific instructions for your windows. Precautions must still be taken but the Epoxy is strong enough to withstand normal structural movement. Hi Rodger , I’m a newbie that just found the your super helpful Site . The first time my husband (as advised by the contractor, who does not live locally) dug out the wet grout (Mapei, sanded), allowed the space to dry for several days, replaced the grout and let it cure for two days, then applied sealer and allowed it to dry for two more days. You can add silicone caulk with Microban (DAP is my favorite brand right now) to the space between the cement board and pipes.Then add RedGard. All the cool kids are doin’ it. Attach new pieces with screws and wood glue. Use shims to secure the window, placing them at the pre-drilled frame screw holes. Our tile are over kerdi membrane, shower pan, ditra (on top or drywall / wonderboard). When the seal has deteriorated, simply replace it with a fresh seal. In a sealed system (tiled floor as well) it is normally behind all the tile, but it still ends up at the drain. What about wall to wall (perpendicular to each other)? It’ll be fun. The backer-rod needs to be slightly thicker than the expansion joint, example- a 3/4 inch joint needs 1 inch foam backer-rod. See How to Caulk to learn to lay a bead of caulk. Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint. Would like some sort of shelf. Although it is not flexible it will grab the tile well enough to prevent it from splitting or cracking out. Thanks again for your help. Weep holes are small openings that help water drain out. Will I be OK if I fill with thinset/mesh tape then run a strip of fabric/aquadefense down to the flange? Would the wall that is having a leak be an interior wall? Link to Lowe's Home Improvement Home Page, Step 6: Fill Holes and Attach New Pieces for Stability, Types of Windows: Replacement Window Buying Guide, Replace the entire existing window down to the house frame, Necessary when existing window frames are old and deteriorating, More advanced project because you have to remove interior and exterior trims and sometimes the siding, Replace only the existing sashes with smaller windows that fit inside the existing frames, Existing frames must be in good condition, More DIY-friendly than full-frame replacements because your current trims and siding aren't removed, Determine the height and width of the pocket opening using a. The space between the tiles at the change of plane must be large enough (for sanded grout) or small enough (for non-sanded grout) to be able to support the grout. 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